What is Ume (plum)? An explanation of the origin, history, and color schemes of layered kimono colors.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「梅」の色見本
Japanese color name
readingume
season
Color of the tableWhite (shiro)
Back colorSuou
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What is a plum? Origin and etymology

The "Ume" (plum blossom) color combination, as its name suggests, is a color scheme inspired by the plum blossoms that bloom in early spring. The white on the outside is said to symbolize the snow that remains from winter, while the deep red of the lining, sappanwood, is said to symbolize the color of the red plum blossoms that emerge from the snow. By combining these two contrasting colors, the vitality and dignified beauty of the plum blossom, which heralds the arrival of spring even in the harsh cold, is skillfully expressed. It is one of the color combinations that was born from the delicate sensibilities of the Heian aristocracy who loved nature.

Historical background of plums

In the aristocratic society of the Heian period, a culture of "kasane no irome" (layered color schemes) developed, expressing the changing seasons through the color combinations of clothing. "Ume" (plum blossom) was a representative color of spring and was worn especially from January to around February to celebrate the new year. This color scheme was used in women's uchiki (outer robes) and was an important element in demonstrating a person's education and aesthetic sense at court ceremonies and seasonal banquets.

The name appears in records of clothing from that period, such as the "Masasuke Shōzoku Shō," suggesting that this color scheme has been loved since ancient times.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

Plum blossoms have been loved by many poets since the time of the Manyoshu anthology and have frequently been the subject of waka poetry. In the masterpiece of Heian literature, "The Tale of Genji," the sense of the seasons and emotions are expressed through the descriptions of the characters' clothing, and it is thought that the color of "plum" was an important element that colored the spring scenes. Furthermore, in "The Pillow Book," it is written, "Of the trees' blossoms, both dark and light red are red plum blossoms," indicating that plum blossoms were a special object of beauty for the aristocracy of the time.

Thus, the color of the plum blossom is deeply intertwined with the world of classical literature and has become a symbol of Japanese aesthetics.

When the east wind blows, send forth your fragrance, plum blossoms; do not forget spring, even though your master is gone.

— Sugawara no Michizane

Plum blossom season and scenery

The "plum blossom" color combination was worn during the transitional season between the end of winter and the beginning of spring, specifically from January to around February. The white on the outside evokes the lingering snow, while the sappanwood on the inside suggests the vibrant red plum blossoms blooming powerfully from between the snow. This color scheme embodies the delicate Japanese aesthetic of finding signs of spring amidst the harsh cold. It reflects the hearts of people eagerly awaiting spring and expresses the pure and hopeful atmosphere of the new year through the attire.

Plum blossom color scheme proposal

Light green
golden
Indigo

Light green (#A5C949)

The light green color of the young grass sprouting in early spring further enhances the feeling of the season as the snow melts. The combination of white and madder red adds a breath of life, creating a color scheme that completes a richer early spring scene.

Golden (#E6B422)

The golden hue, reminiscent of the stamens of plum blossoms, adds splendor and elegance to the white and sappanwood color scheme. Incorporating it into the patterns of clothing or modern accessories can create a refined and festive impression.

Indigo (#274A78)

A deep indigo color reminiscent of the crisp air of early spring, when the chill still lingers. It accentuates the contrast between the white snow and the red plum blossoms, conveying a dignified stillness and elegance. It has the effect of tightening the overall look and creating a calm impression.

Practical Scenes

In traditional Japanese clothing, the color scheme of "plum blossoms" is incorporated into kimonos, obi sashes, and accessories such as obi-jime and obi-age, heralding the arrival of spring. It is especially suitable for occasions where a sense of the season is important, such as New Year's tea ceremonies and theater performances. A kimono with a madder red pattern on a white background, or the reverse color scheme, gives an elegant and vibrant impression.

The "plum blossom" color scheme can be effectively utilized in contemporary fashion and interior design. By incorporating sappanwood as an accent color in cushions and artwork within a white-based space, a sophisticated, modern Japanese atmosphere can be created. Furthermore, using it in website and print design can express the refreshing feeling of the New Year and traditional beauty.

FAQ

❓ In what season is it appropriate to wear the "plum blossom" color combination in traditional Japanese kimono layering?
"Ume" (plum blossom) is a spring color combination, and it is considered most appropriate to wear it from the end of winter to the beginning of spring, around January to February. The color scheme expresses the scene of red plum blossoms blooming from the snow.
❓ There's a similar color to "ume" (plum blossom), called "koubai" (red plum blossom). What's the difference?
While "Ume" (梅) depicts red plum blossoms in the snow with a white front and a sappanwood back, "Koubai" (紅梅) depicts the red plum blossoms themselves in full bloom with a red front and a sappanwood back. Although both use the plum blossom as their subject, they express different scenes and nuances.
❓ What color is "Suou" used for the lining?
Suou is a dark reddish-black color obtained by dyeing with the heartwood of the legume plant "Suou." It has long been considered a noble color and was frequently used in the attire of court nobles during the Heian period.

Color combinations of the same season (spring)

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