What is Ikkonzome? An explanation of the origin, history, and color scheme of traditional Japanese colors.

Japanese Color Encyclopedia
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一斤染の色見本 HEX #F5B199
Japanese color name One loaf dyed
reading ikkonzome
HEX #F5B199
RGB 245, 177, 153
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What is Ikkin-zome? Origin and etymology

Ikkin-zome refers to a pale pink color with a slight yellowish tint, achieved by dyeing with safflower. Its name originates from the "Engishiki," a collection of laws from the Heian period, where it refers to the use of one kin (approximately 600g) of safflower, which was considered precious at the time, to dye one hiki (equivalent to two bolts of silk). It is considered the palest color among safflower dyes, and its delicate hue is its defining characteristic.

It's known as a color that's slightly more reddish than cherry blossom pink, giving a warm and gentle impression.

Historical background of Ikkin-zome

During the Heian period, the amount of dye used was closely linked to the social class system. Deep crimson, in particular, dyed with expensive safflower, was a "forbidden color" that only the emperor and a select few high-ranking individuals were permitted to wear. On the other hand, because it used less safflower, one-kin dye was a "permitted color" second only to the forbidden colors, and was widely used by women of the aristocratic class.

This color was particularly favored as a symbol of the freshness and loveliness of young women, and it is said to have been frequently used in clothing and furnishings of the time.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

Ikkinzome is a color that graces Heian period literature and appears in numerous works. In the "Suetsumuhana" chapter of "The Tale of Genji," Princess Suetsumuhana, who is not beautiful but kind-hearted, is depicted wearing an old-fashioned Ikkinzome garment. This depiction is effectively used to symbolize her modest and simple character.

Furthermore, in Sei Shonagon's "The Pillow Book," examples of "elegant things" include "a light-colored white silk undergarment, grape-dyed fabric, wisteria flowers, and one-pound dye," suggesting that these colors were recognized as elegant and refined in the aristocratic society of the time.

Color scheme preview

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Color scheme proposal for one loaf of dyed bread

One loaf dyed
Light green
White training
dark color

Light green (#A9D159)

The combination with a fresh green reminiscent of spring leaves gives a vibrant and youthful impression. This classic color scheme, also seen in the "kasane no irome" (layered color combinations) of the Heian period, creates a bright and cheerful harmony that evokes the arrival of spring.

White training (#FCFAF2)

When paired with pure white silk, the soft and gentle hues of the single-dye technique are highlighted, creating an elegant and refined atmosphere. This combination, often seen in kimono layering and traditional Japanese accessories, expresses a modest yet dignified elegance.

Dark color (#634950)

By combining it with a deep, rich purple, the brightness of the single-ply dyed fabric stands out, giving the overall look a refined and sophisticated feel. This contrasting color scheme, also seen in the attire of Heian-period aristocrats, creates a refined and mature impression that balances elegance and composure.

Practical Scenes

In the world of traditional Japanese clothing, ikkanzome (a type of dye) is used as part of the background color or pattern for furisode (long-sleeved kimono), houmongi (formal visiting kimono), and komon (casual kimono). It is particularly popular as a color suitable for the spring season and is often combined with floral patterns such as cherry blossoms and plum blossoms. Incorporating it into accessories such as obiage (sash ties) and obijime (sash cords) can add a soft and elegant touch to the entire outfit.

In interior design, using it in fabrics such as wallpaper, curtains, and cushions creates a bright and gentle atmosphere throughout the space. It pairs well with spaces based on white or beige tones, and with natural wooden furniture, making it suitable for creating a calm and relaxing environment.

In web and graphic design, it creates a friendly and soft impression, making it effective for websites targeting women's products and services, as well as spring campaign pages. It's easy to use as both a main color and an accent color, and when combined with white or light gray, it can create an elegant and sophisticated design.

FAQ

❓ What is the difference between Ikkin-zome and Sakura-iro?
Ikkinzome uses safflower as a dye, resulting in a warm, slightly yellowish pink color. On the other hand, sakura-iro generally refers to a pale pink color that is closer to white and has a bluish tint, like the petals of Somei Yoshino cherry blossoms. The difference between the two lies in the dyes used and the subtle differences in hue.
❓ Why was the dyeing process called "Yurushiiro" (聴色)?
During the Heian period, deep crimson and red colors dyed with safflower were "forbidden colors" that could only be worn by the emperor and high-ranking nobles. Ikkinzome, being a lighter color that used less safflower, was designated as a "listening color," the next most acceptable color after the forbidden colors, and was permitted for people of lower social standing to wear as well.
❓ How much is "one pound"?
"Kin" is a unit of mass, and while it varies depending on the era and region, in Japan's Ritsuryo system it was generally considered to be around 600g to 660g. The term "Ikkin-zome" (one kin dyeing) originates from the practice of dyeing one hiki (two bolts of silk) with one kin' worth of safflower.

Japanese colors similar to Ikkin-zome

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