What is Unohana (卯花)? An explanation of the origin, history, and color scheme of the layered color combination.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「卯の花」の色見本
Japanese color nameDeutzia
readingunohana
season
Color of the tableWhite (shiro)
Back colorMoegi (light green)
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What is Unohana? Origin and etymology

"Unohana" is a color combination that depicts the scene of the white flowers of the Deutzia crenata (Deutzia gracilis) that bloom in early summer, and the young leaves that grow around them. Its name is said to originate from the fact that the flowers bloom in "Uzuki," the fourth month of the lunar calendar. The "white" on the outside symbolizes the pure white flowers that bloom profusely on hedges and other places, while the "light green" on the inside symbolizes the fresh, vibrant color of the young leaves.

This color scheme skillfully captures the refreshing and cool natural beauty of the beginning of summer on clothing, conveying the delicate aesthetic sensibilities of the Heian aristocracy to this day.

One theory suggests that the sight of deutzia flowers in full bloom was called "unohanagaki" (deutzia wall), and that the contrast between the rows of white flowers and the green leaves was the inspiration for this color scheme. People in the Heian period considered not only the color of the flowers themselves, but also the environment in which they bloomed and the atmosphere of the season as part of "color." The deutzia layering can be said to be a fine example of Japan's traditional color culture, born from such a comprehensive sense of beauty.

Historical background of deutzia flowers

During the Heian period, a culture of "kasane no irome" (layered colors) flourished in aristocratic society, expressing the changing seasons through the colors of clothing. "U-no-hana" (deutzia) is said to have been one of the representative colors of summer, mainly worn from April to May in the old lunar calendar. This period corresponds to around May to June in the modern calendar, and it was highly valued as attire that heralded the arrival of summer. It was especially used as a layering of women's uchiki (outer robes), and the sight of the vibrant light green peeking out from beneath the pure white garment gave the people of the imperial court a cool and elegant impression.

The name of this color combination can be found in court etiquette books from the late Heian period to the Kamakura period, such as the "Masasuke Shōzoku Shō" and the "Shōzoku Irome Shō." Its inclusion in these documents indicates that "Unohana" (deutzia flower) was established and passed down through generations in aristocratic society as a color scheme symbolizing a specific season. It was an indispensable color combination in the Heian court culture, which highly valued a sense of the seasons.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

"U-no-hana" (deutzia) is a seasonal word for summer and has appeared frequently in waka poetry and narrative literature, adorning the scenery of early summer. In Sei Shonagon's "The Pillow Book," it is written, "Among the flowers of the trees (omitted)...U-no-hana blooms as if snow is falling," praising the beauty of its overflowing white flowers by comparing them to snow. This passage solidified the pure and refreshing image associated with U-no-hana.

Furthermore, the combination of deutzia flowers and cuckoos was frequently depicted in the Manyoshu and Kokin Wakashu anthologies. Since cuckoos migrate to Japan and begin singing around the time deutzia flowers bloom, these two elements became established as symbols of the arrival of early summer. Through literary works, "deutzia flowers" transcended being merely the name of a plant and became deeply etched in the hearts of the Japanese people as a symbol of purity, the beginning of summer, and sometimes even scenes reminiscing about past loves.

Come and sing, cuckoo, in the hedge fragrant with deutzia blossoms, for I long for you.

— Anonymous (Kokin Wakashū)

The season and scenery of deutzia flowers

"U-no-hana" is a color combination that heralds the beginning of summer, and it was considered most appropriate to wear it from April (Uzuki) to May in the old lunar calendar. In the modern calendar, this corresponds to around May to June, the season when the sunlight intensifies and the fresh green leaves are dazzling to the eye. The contrast between the pure white deutzia flowers blooming on the hedges and the vibrant, fresh green young leaves perfectly expresses the refreshing atmosphere of early summer.

This color scheme, visually refreshing, was ideal for the beginning of the humid season. The white on the outside reflects strong sunlight, while the light green peeking through from the inside gives a youthful and vibrant feel. It was a popular choice for celebrating the arrival of the season in various settings, from court ceremonies to private gatherings, bringing a sense of coolness to both the wearer and the observer.

Color scheme proposal for deutzia flowers

Asahanada (light blue)
Wisteria color
Daylily green

Asahanada (#84A1BC)

A pale blue reminiscent of the clear skies and pristine streams of early summer. When combined with the white and light green of deutzia flowers, it further emphasizes a refreshing and cool impression. This sophisticated color scheme enhances the sense of coolness and cleanliness, making it suitable for summer designs.

Wisteria color (#BBADC7)

Like the deutzia flower, the wisteria flower blooms in early summer. The combination of white, light green, and wisteria purple richly expresses the colors of early summer wildflowers. It is an elegant and refined color scheme that harmonizes particularly well with feminine attire and Japanese-style designs.

Daylily green (#F8A33E)

A bright orange color reminiscent of the daylily flowers that bloom in summer. The refreshing white and light green, combined with the warm color of the daylily, create a lively, vibrant, and elegant feel. The beautiful contrast gives it an eye-catching, modern impression.

Practical Scenes

In Heian period attire, the color "Unohana" (deutzia flower) was primarily used as a color scheme for the uchigi (a type of kimono worn by women). The sight of the light green lining peeking out from the cuffs and hem of the white outer garment was a refined and elegant way to express the season. This color combination must have evoked a refreshing breeze of early summer in those who saw it.

In modern Japanese clothing, incorporating the "Utsugi no Hana" (deutzia flower) color scheme into summer kimonos, yukata, obi sashes, and accessories such as obiage and obijime allows for a stylish and seasonally appropriate look. In particular, coordinating a white kimono with a light green obi is one way to express classical aesthetics in a modern way.

Beyond traditional Japanese clothing, this color scheme can be used in a variety of fields. In interior design, using white walls as a base and incorporating light green cushions and accessories can create a natural and refreshing space. It is also effective in websites and graphic design when you want to convey a clean and fresh image.

FAQ

❓ In which season is the most appropriate to wear the "U-no-hana" (deutzia flower) color combination in traditional Japanese kimono layering?
It is considered most appropriate to wear this garment during the summer season, especially from April to May in the old lunar calendar. This corresponds to around May to June in the current calendar, coinciding with the early summer period when the deutzia flowers are in full bloom.
❓ Are there any other color combinations of layered garments with a similar color scheme to "Unohana"?
Similar in that the outer fabric is white is the winter color combination "Yukinoshita" (under the snow). In this combination, the outer fabric is white and the inner fabric is plum blossom red (or madder red), representing the scene of plum blossoms peeking out from under the snow. The outer color is the same, but the inner color and the sense of the season are completely different.
❓ Why is the lining of the "Unohana" layered kimono color "Moegi" (light green)?
This is because it expresses not only the vibrant white deutzia blossoms but also the color of the lively young leaves growing around them. It reflects the keen observational skills and aesthetic sense of the Heian aristocracy, who perceived not only the flower itself but the entire natural scene in which it blooms as a single, beautiful phenomenon.

Color combinations of the same season (summer)

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