What is Ominaeshi (Patrinia scabiosifolia)? An explanation of the origin, history, and color combinations of the color scheme used in layered garments.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「女郎花」の色見本
Japanese color namegirl flower
readingominaeshi
season
Color of the tableYellow (ki)
Back colorblue (ao)
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What is Patrinia scabiosifolia? Origin and etymology

The layered color combination "Ominaeshi" (Patrinia scabiosifolia) is derived from the plant of the same name, one of the seven autumn flowers. One theory suggests that its name comes from the fact that its small yellow flowers resemble millet rice (ominameshi), while another theory suggests that it was named because its beauty overwhelms even beautiful women (prostitutes). This color combination beautifully recreates the atmosphere of Ominaeshi flowers blooming in the autumn fields on the garment by using a vibrant "yellow" on the outside, reminiscent of the Ominaeshi flower, and a "blue" (formerly a color including green) on the inside, representing its leaves and stems.

Historical background of the Patrinia scabiosifolia

In the court society of the Heian period, the culture of "kasane no irome," which expressed the changing seasons through the colors of clothing, flourished. "Ominaeshi" (Patrinia scabiosifolia) was one such color, and it was favored by the nobility as a representative color of autumn. This color scheme was used for both men's clothing and women's uchiki (outer robes), embodying the elegant pleasure of wearing the scenery of an autumn field. It is also mentioned in the "Masasuke Shōzoku Shō," a book on clothing customs believed to have been compiled during the Kamakura period, indicating that it was a well-established color scheme from ancient times.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

The patrinia flower was an important motif symbolizing autumn in the world of Heian literature. In "The Tale of Genji," it is depicted blooming in the garden of Hikaru Genji's residence in the chapter "Nowaki," adding a sense of the season and emotion to the story. In "The Pillow Book," it is also mentioned along with carnations and other flowers in the section "Flowers of the Grasses," and its beauty is praised. In the world of waka poetry, it is frequently used as a seasonal word for autumn, and its delicate appearance has been deeply rooted in the Japanese aesthetic sense since ancient times.

The valerian flower sways in the autumn breeze; to whom do I entrust my heart?

— Bishop Henjō

The season and scenery of the Patrinia scabiosifolia

This layered color scheme is considered most appropriate to wear from the eighth to the ninth month of the lunar calendar, when the patrinia flowers, which herald the arrival of autumn, begin to bloom. The vibrant yellow of the outer layer symbolizes the flowers in full bloom, while the blue (or green) of the inner layer symbolizes the fresh leaves and stems, creating a scene of clusters of patrinia flowers spreading across the autumn fields. Wearing this color scheme under the clear autumn sky expresses the joy of becoming one with nature, and it was an elegant attire that added color to autumn events such as moon-viewing parties and autumn leaf viewing.

Color scheme proposal for Patrinia scabiosifolia

Withered leaf color
Bellflower color
White training

Kutsuha color (#917347)

By combining it with the same autumnal color, withered leaf green, the deepening autumn scenery can be expressed. The yellow of the patrinia flower stands out even more, resulting in a color scheme that balances calmness and vibrancy. This combination can also be seen in Heian period attire as an autumnal combination.

Bellflower color (#5A4F9F)

The color of the bellflower, which, like the patrinia, is one of the seven autumn flowers. Yellow and purple are close to complementary colors, and they have the effect of making each other's colors appear more vibrant. It is a sophisticated combination that gives a classic yet modern impression.

White training (#FFFFFF)

By pairing it with pure white, the vibrant yellow of the Patrinia flower stands out, creating a sense of cleanliness and elegance. The color scheme evokes the clear air and moonlight of autumn, and it is a combination that can be easily applied to modern Japanese clothing and designs.

Practical Scenes

In traditional Japanese attire, the combination of "Ominaeshi" (Patrinia scabiosifolia) and other colors is often used in autumn kimonos, such as formal visiting kimonos, casual kimonos, and obi sashes. It is particularly favored for occasions where seasonality is important, such as tea ceremonies and theater performances. Incorporating it not only into kimonos but also into Japanese accessories can subtly create an autumnal atmosphere.

In contemporary design, vibrant, high-contrast color schemes are eye-catching. They can be applied to accent colors on websites, product packaging, and interior textiles. In particular, they are effective in creating a color scheme that balances tradition and modernity in Japanese-style modern spaces and products.

FAQ

❓ Why is the lining of the "Ominaeshi" (Patrinia scabiosifolia) kimono blue? Why isn't it green?
During the Heian period, the Japanese sense of color encompassed a broad range of colors, including green. Therefore, the green of the leaves and stems of the Patrinia scabiosifolia flower was described as "blue," and blue tones were used for the linings in layered garments. This reflects the color culture of the time.
❓ Did men also wear this color?
Yes, I wore it. Although it's a color with a feminine name, "Ominaeshi" (Patrinia scabiosifolia), it was loved by both men and women during the Heian period. It was also used in men's court attire such as the noshi (court robe) and kariginu (hunting robe), and is thought to have been widely popular as autumn attire.
❓ Are there any layered color combinations similar to "Ominaeshi" (Patrinia scabiosifolia)?
Among the autumn color combinations, there is also "Kigiku" (yellow chrysanthemum), which is also based on yellow flowers. "Kigiku" has a yellow outer layer and a red or blue (green) inner layer, and like the Ominaeshi flower, it expresses the splendor of autumn, but the elegance and shades of color of the chrysanthemum give it a different feel.

Color combinations for the same season (autumn)

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