What is "cicada wing"? An explanation of the origin, history, and color scheme of the layered color combination.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「蝉の羽」の色見本
Japanese color nameCicada wings
readingseminoha
season
Color of the tableblue (ao)
Back colorlight blue (usuao)
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What are cicada wings? Origin and etymology

"Semi no Ha" (Cicada's Wing), as the name suggests, is a color combination inspired by the thin, translucent wings of cicadas, a symbol of summer. By using blue on the outside and light blue on the inside, it expresses the delicate hues and slightly bluish transparency of cicada wings illuminated by light. It can be said to be an expression of the aesthetic sense of the Heian period aristocrats who, with their keen sensibilities, captured the beauty of familiar natural scenes and living things and incorporated them into the color schemes of their clothing.

The vibrant energy of summer is captured in the clothing through cool and sophisticated colors.

The origin of this color scheme directly lies in the wings of a cicada. People at the time felt the height of summer in the sound of cicadas and saw the changing seasons and the transience of life in their appearance. Cicada wings, in particular, were thin and delicate yet conveyed a strong sense of vitality, and it is thought that they were favored as an aesthetic object. Some interpret the combination of blue hues as representing a comprehensive scene that includes not only the color of the wings themselves, but also the green of the summer trees and the color of the sky visible through the wings.

Historical background of cicada wings

The combination of colors in layered garments developed as a symbol of the refined aesthetic sense of the aristocracy during the maturation of Heian period Japanese culture. It was an important cultural practice that expressed a sense of the seasons and an individual's refinement through the combination of colors in their clothing. "Cicada's wings" was one of the color combinations used for summer attire, and its existence can be confirmed in later documents concerning clothing, such as the "Masasuke Shōzoku Shō."

These records suggest that this color scheme was established as a way to represent the summer season from the Heian period to the Kamakura period.

Rather than being used in official court ceremonies, this style was favored for personal, private occasions and as attire to enjoy the seasonal beauty. In particular, this cool color scheme is thought to have elegantly adorned women's summer attire, especially in the layering of uchiki (outer robes). It is also presumed that men incorporated it into their everyday attire, such as noshi (formal court robes), to show a refined appreciation for nature.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

While the color "cicada wings" doesn't appear directly in classical literature very often, cicadas are frequently depicted as a symbol of summer and transience. In "The Tale of Genji," there is a chapter called "Utsusemi" in which Hikaru Genji contemplates a woman using the empty shell of a cicada as a metaphor, treating the cicada as an important motif symbolizing the impermanence and transience of human life. It is thought that this literary background influenced the aesthetic sensibilities of color schemes using cicadas as a theme.

Furthermore, cicadas have been featured in many waka poems as a seasonal word for summer. Their chirping evokes the height of summer, while their molted exoskeletons remind us of the passing season and the transience of human life. Just as Sei Shonagon wrote in "The Pillow Book" that "summer is the night," appreciating the atmosphere of summer nights, Heian aristocrats perceived the changing seasons with their five senses and expressed it in the form of waka poems and clothing. The colors of "cicada wings" are a crystallization of Japanese aesthetics, deeply intertwined with this literary sensibility.

As the cicada's wings become thinner, perhaps its deep feelings are visible to others.

— Izumi Shikibu

The season and scenery of cicada wings

The "Cicada Wing" design is a color scheme perfectly suited to summer, especially the period from June to July in the old lunar calendar, which corresponds to July to August in the modern calendar, when cicadas are in full bloom. The blue on the front symbolizes the deep green of summer trees and the clear sky, while the light blue on the back represents the delicate texture of a cicada's wing shimmering in the light. This color combination brings a sense of coolness amidst the summer heat and vividly reflects the vibrant scenes of nature.

Wearing these colors not only creates a sense of coolness, but also embodies the refined playfulness of Heian-era aristocrats, as it allows one to wear the very image of summer filled with the sound of cicadas. It is said to have been particularly favored at occasions where people enjoyed the beauty of nature, such as summer banquets and moon-viewing parties, and it played a role in making both the wearer and the viewer feel the arrival of the season and the brilliance of life.

Suggested color schemes for cicada wings

Withered leaf color
Shironeri
Nadeshiko-iro (pink)

Withered leaf color (#915E33)

This color scheme evokes the feeling of the end of summer. The cool blue of cicada wings, combined with the calm brown of withered leaves, expresses the transition from midsummer to early autumn. When paired with traditional Japanese clothing such as hakama, it creates a sophisticated and dignified look.

Shironeri (#FFFFFF)

This refreshing color scheme evokes the strong summer sun and towering cumulonimbus clouds. Combining the blue hues of cicada wings with pure white creates a striking sense of cleanliness and coolness. Even in modern design, this combination gives a fresh and sophisticated impression.

Nadeshiko-iro (pink) (#E7A2B8)

The cool blue tones, combined with the gentle pink reminiscent of summer-blooming carnations, add a touch of elegance and charm. This graceful color scheme, also seen in women's clothing from the Heian period, is particularly effective when used for accessories or as an accent color.

Practical Scenes

In Heian period attire, the "cicada wing" color was primarily used in women's uchiki (outer robes) and men's noshi (formal court attire). It was a popular color choice for expressing the feeling of summer, especially in occasions where elegance and refinement were valued. It is believed that using this color on top of multiple layers of clothing created a cool and refreshing impression.

In modern Japanese clothing, incorporating this color scheme into summer kimonos, yukatas, and accessories such as obiage and obijime can create a stylish and cool look. It pairs particularly well with sheer fabrics like ro and sha. In interior design, using it in curtains and cushion covers can bring a sense of calm and coolness to a room.

The "cicada wing" color scheme is also effective in web design and graphic design. When used as a background color or key color, it can give an elegant and sophisticated impression. It is particularly suitable for content themed around the summer season or for designs that require a quiet and calm atmosphere.

FAQ

❓ In which season is the "cicada wing" color combination most appropriate to wear?
It is considered most suitable to wear during the height of summer, especially from the sixth to seventh month of the lunar calendar (July to August in the modern calendar), when cicadas begin to sing. The cool colors have a visual effect that alleviates the summer heat.
❓ There is a similar color to "cicada wings" called "utsusemi" (empty cicada shell), but what is the difference?
"Cicada wings" express the transparency and colors of a living cicada's wings, while "cicada shell" is said to be based on the colors of a cicada's molted exoskeleton and is often expressed in softer, more ephemeral tones. Although both use the same cicada as their subject, they capture different aspects: vitality and transience.
❓ Was this color used for men's or women's clothing?
While the layered color scheme was used by both men and women, delicate colors reminiscent of natural scenery, such as "cicada wings," were particularly favored in women's uchiki (outer robes). However, they were also sometimes used in private attire, such as men's noshi (formal court robes).

Color combinations of the same season (summer)

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