What is Rokocha? An explanation of the origin, history, and color scheme of this traditional Japanese color.

Japanese Color Encyclopedia
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路考茶の色見本 HEX #85654C
Japanese color name Rukocha
reading rokocha
HEX #85654C
RGB 133, 101, 76
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What is Rokōcha? Origin and etymology

Rokōcha is a color name derived from Segawa Kikunojō II, a popular Kabuki actor of the mid-Edo period. His haiku pen name was "Rokō," and this greenish-brown color, which he favored using in his stage costumes, came to be called "Rokōcha." It is a prime example of an "actor's color," where an actor's name becomes the color name, illustrating how enthusiastic ordinary people were about Kabuki actors at the time and how they imitated their fashion.

The color is not simply brown, but has complex nuances of green and gray. This is said to reflect the dyeing techniques of the time. It is said that the fabric, dyed yellow with plant dyes such as bayberry and Japanese knotweed, was treated with an iron-containing mordant to dull the color, and then a small amount of indigo was added as a finishing touch to create this unique, subdued tone. This complex process produced a deep color that resonated with the Edo aesthetic of "chic" and refined taste.

Historical background of Luo Kao tea

The popularity of Rokōcha tea is believed to have begun around the Meiwa era (1764-1772) in the mid-Edo period. During this time, Edo's townspeople culture reached its peak, and Kabuki was the greatest form of entertainment for the common people. Popular actors, in particular, were fashion leaders, and the colors of the costumes they wore quickly became extremely popular throughout Edo.

The second generation Segawa Kikunojo was an actor who enjoyed immense popularity as an onnagata (female impersonator). His elegant acting style and the subdued, calm colors he favored matched the temperament of Edoites who disliked ostentation and valued "chic" (refined elegance). Rokōcha, along with Ichikawa Danjūrō's "Danjūrōcha" and Onoe Kikugorō's "Baikōcha," became a sensation as an "actor's color" that symbolized the trends of the time.

This trend wasn't limited to just the color of kimonos. Rokōcha (a type of brown) was also incorporated into accessories such as obi sashes, han-eri collars, and drawstring pouches, and was widely used by both men and women. Ukiyo-e prints also depict townspeople wearing Rokōcha kimonos, making it an important color for understanding the fashion culture of the time.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

The name "Rokōcha" can be found in literary works and humorous books depicting the customs of the Edo period. For example, in the humorous book "Kokei no Sanshō" (1787) written by Santō Kyōden, there is a line that says "the color of Rokōcha." This suggests that Rokōcha was still a recognized color among people more than a decade after its popularity.

While this color isn't directly mentioned in many waka or haiku poems, its subdued hue is deeply connected to Japanese aesthetics such as wabi-sabi and iki. Although not a specific seasonal word, its calm tone often evokes autumn scenes. As a color symbolizing Edo period townspeople culture, it has been effectively used in later historical novels and dramas to recreate the atmosphere of the time.

Color scheme preview

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Roko tea color scheme suggestion

Rukocha
generation color
Aphrodisiac tea
Suou

Generated color (#FBF9F4)

The deep, dignified impression of the Rokōcha tea is enhanced by the bright, soft white of the off-white color. A contrast is created, making each color stand out. A sense of cleanliness and elegance is added, creating a modern atmosphere while remaining traditionally Japanese.

Aphrodisiac tea (#716246)

The combination of Lu Kao tea and Kobi tea, both being a greenish-brown, creates a unified and calming impression. The gradation of colors creates a sense of depth and dimension. It can be described as a sophisticated and refined color scheme.

Suou (#9E3D3F)

The combination of the mellow Rokōcha tea and the deep reddish sappanwood adds vibrancy and strength. It's a classic and striking combination, reminiscent of those seen in Edo-period Kabuki costumes. The colors are almost complementary, enhancing each other's beauty.

Practical Scenes

In traditional Japanese clothing, the color Rokōcha (a type of brown) is particularly appealing. When used with everyday kimonos and obi sashes made of silk or cotton, it creates an effortlessly chic and stylish look. It is also a popular color for men's haori jackets and hakama trousers, giving off a calm and mature air.

In interior design, incorporating it into wallpaper, curtains, and sofa upholstery brings a sense of calm and depth to a space with a Japanese modern feel. It pairs exceptionally well with wooden furniture and natural materials such as bamboo and washi paper, contributing to the creation of a relaxing space.

In web and graphic design, using it as a background or key color can convey tradition, reliability, and a sense of luxury. It is suitable for websites of established brands and content dealing with historical themes, giving users a calm and sophisticated impression.

FAQ

❓ Why is Luo Kou Tea greenish despite having "tea" in its name?
During the Edo period, the word "cha" (茶) was used not only to refer to the modern brown color, but also as a prefix to describe muted shades in general. Rokōcha is a greenish color produced by combining yellow dyes such as those from mountain peach with indigo dye, and it is said that it was given the name "cha" because of its subdued hue.
❓ Who was Kikunojo Segawa II, the person who was a fan of Rokko tea?
Segawa Kikunojō II (1741-1773) was a Kabuki actor who was active in the mid-Edo period. He was especially popular as an onnagata (female role actor), and his good looks and outstanding acting skills made him a sensation. He was also a fashion leader, and he created many trends, such as "Rokōcha" (tea) and "Rokōmage" (hairstyle), which were named after him.
❓ What is the difference between Rokko Tea and other "actor colors"?
While Rokōcha is a muted, greenish-brown, other actor colors have distinct characteristics. For example, the "Danjūrōcha" of the first Ichikawa Danjūrō is a reddish-persimmon color, and the "Baikōcha" of the first Onoe Kikugorō is a bluish-brown. Each color reflects the individuality and style of the actor, and the subtle differences in shades reveal the aesthetic sensibilities of the people of Edo.

Japanese colors similar to Rokōcha

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