What is a cicada shell? Origin and etymology
"Utsusemi" literally refers to the molted exoskeleton of a cicada. This color combination is said to represent the contrast between the reddish-brown (sappanwood) of the cicada's exoskeleton, a symbol of summer, and the lush green summer plants and sky (blue) that remain behind it.
Furthermore, the word "Utsusemi" (empty cicada shell) also encompasses the Buddhist concept of impermanence, such as the fleeting nature of this world and life itself. It is thought that this color scheme resonated with the sensibilities of the Heian aristocracy not merely for its aesthetic beauty, but also for its profound meaning that evokes a sense of pathos.
Historical background of Utsusemi
The combination of colors in layered garments is a crystallization of the refined aesthetic sensibilities of the aristocracy, cultivated within the Heian period's national culture. In particular, the combination of colors appropriate to the season and occasion was considered important in women's attire such as the twelve-layered kimono (junihitoe). "Utsusemi" is said to be a color combination used in summer and was seen in the attire of court ladies. However, there are few existing Heian period documents that clearly confirm the name of the color "Utsusemi," and it is partly believed that it was systematized in later texts on court customs and practices.
Nevertheless, it is one of the color schemes that symbolizes the refined culture of the Heian aristocracy, which incorporated natural scenery into their clothing.
Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words
The word "Utsusemi" holds significant meaning in classical literature, particularly in "The Tale of Genji." One of the women whom Hikaru Genji loves is named Utsusemi. Like a cicada shedding its shell, she leaves Hikaru Genji, leaving behind only a single garment. This famous scene is deeply intertwined with the image of transience and poignancy associated with the romantic figure of Utsusemi.
Through this story, "Utsusemi" transcends being merely a color name and acquires literary depth as a symbol of the impermanence of human life and the elusive nature of love.
Beneath the tree where the cicada's shell was shed, I still feel a fondness for the human character.
The season and scenery of cicada shells
"Utsusemi" (empty cicada shell) is, as its name suggests, a color combination used in summer. The outer color, sappanwood, is reminiscent of the reddish-brown of a cicada's molted shell, while the inner color, blue, evokes the green of the trees in summer when cicadas sing, and the clear summer sky. This color scheme expresses a somewhat melancholic atmosphere and the transience of life that lurks amidst the powerful sunlight of midsummer. This color combination, evoking scenes of a quiet afternoon or twilight filled with the sound of cicadas, was not merely for the purpose of coolness, but also to reflect the deep emotions of the summer season in one's attire.
It is generally worn during the period from June to July of the lunar calendar.
Suggested color scheme for Utsusemi
White training (#FFFFFF)
By adding pure white to the deep hues of sappanwood and blue found in the cicada shell, the strong summer sunlight and clouds are expressed, adding a sense of freshness and cleanliness. It is effective as the color of underwear in traditional clothing and as an accent color in modern designs.
Light green (#A5C422)
Similar to the blue used as the underside of the cicada shell, combining it with a fresh green reminiscent of summer plants allows for a richer expression of vibrant summer nature. It is also close to a complementary color to the reddish hue of sappanwood, resulting in a color scheme that enhances each other's beauty.
Kutsuha color (#917347)
By combining it with a reddish-brown color similar to sappanwood, the colors gain a sense of unity and depth. It evokes the transition from the end of summer to early autumn, creating a calmer, more refined impression.
Practical Scenes
During the Heian period, this color scheme was primarily used for summer court ladies' attire. The contrast between the front and back colors was beautiful, and the peeking back color from the cuffs and hem when layered became a stylish focal point. In modern times, incorporating the "Utsusemi" color scheme into kimono and obi sashes can create a classic and literary look. Furthermore, in interior design, using this color scheme for cushions and curtains can create a calm, traditional Japanese space.
In web design and graphic design, it's well-suited for expressing depth and a sense of the season in summer campaigns and content themed around tradition.