What is "Koori" (ice)? An explanation of the origin, history, and color schemes of layered kimono colors.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「氷」の色見本
Japanese color name
readingkoori
season
Color of the tableWhite (shiro)
Back colorWhite (shiro)
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What is ice? Origin and etymology

"Ice," as its name suggests, is a color combination inspired by ice, a natural phenomenon of winter. By using white on both the front and back, it expresses the transparency of ice covering ponds and rivers, and the cold, pure texture of icicles hanging from eaves. It is said to be one of the color combinations that originated from the refined aesthetic sense of the Heian period aristocracy, who were keen to perceive natural landscapes and the changing seasons, and enjoyed reflecting them in the color schemes of their clothing.

While seemingly simple in its color scheme, it embodies a profound aesthetic, allowing one to appreciate the subtle interplay of light and shadow created by the differences in the sheen and weave of the materials.

Historical background of ice

In the aristocratic society of the Heian period, incorporating a sense of the seasons into clothing was considered an important aspect of refinement and an expression of aesthetic sensibility. The "ice" layered garment is said to have been worn mainly during the winter season, from around November to February in the old lunar calendar. The color scheme, with both the outer and inner layers being white, also symbolizes sanctity and purity, suggesting that it may have been used in court ceremonies or on special occasions.

By layering fabrics with different textures, such as a glossy twill weave and a textured weave, the same white fabric can be given a richer look, highlighting the wearer's elegance and refined sensibilities.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

"Ice" is a seasonal word for winter and appears in many waka poems and stories. In the section "In the early morning of winter" in The Pillow Book, the beauty of snow and frost is praised, suggesting that people at the time found a special beauty in the white world created by winter nature. The use of "ice" as a color in traditional Japanese clothing is also deeply connected to this literary sensibility.

Although there are not many direct descriptions of "ice attacks," there are several instances where white clothing is depicted as a symbol of purity and nobility in winter attire, which speaks to the aesthetic background of this color.

The icicles in my bedroom, which have melted and kept me awake, are already tying together this morning, waiting for spring.

― Teika Fujiwara

Ice season and scenery

The "Ice" color combination in traditional Japanese kimono ensembles symbolizes the harsh yet beautiful scenery of winter. It evokes a world enveloped in silence as water freezes in the biting cold. Worn during the depths of winter, it harmonizes with snowscapes and the crisp air of a frosty morning. The clean, all-white color scheme expresses the purity and solemnity of winter nature, giving the viewer a dignified impression. This color combination not only represents coldness but also embodies the spiritual beauty of stillness and purity that resides within it.

Ice color scheme proposal

light color
Light green

Light color (#A89AAF)

By combining it with a pale purple, the white of ice gains a sense of elegance and grace. It evokes the faintly colored dawn sky in the cold air, creating a refined atmosphere favored by Heian-era aristocrats. This color scheme enhances the purity of white while adding a subtle touch of color.

Black (#000000)

The contrasting combination of black and white emphasizes the sharp, modern impression of ice. It evokes a serene world reminiscent of ink paintings or the solemn scenery of a winter night. This color scheme is also effective in contemporary design, creating a refined, minimalist beauty.

Light green (#A9D159)

The vibrant, fresh green color, reminiscent of young spring grass, evokes the end of a harsh winter and the arrival of spring. It symbolizes the hope of new life beginning to sprout as the ice melts. Effective in representing the changing seasons, it adds a vibrant, life-filled color to the tranquility of white.

Practical Scenes

During the Heian period, it is believed that white was used in court ladies' attire, such as the five-layered robe (itsutsuginu), to express the feeling of winter. Its pure, clean impression made it suitable for attire worn in special occasions such as Shinto rituals. By varying the texture of the material, a rich range of expressions could be created even with the same white color.

In modern Japanese attire, the concept of "ice" can be expressed by coordinating a white kimono with a white obi (sash). Adding a touch of color to the obi-jime (sash cord) or obi-age (sash scarf) can also serve as a seasonal accent. In interior design, incorporating glass or metal materials into a white-based space can evoke the transparency and cool texture of ice. In web design, this color scheme is also used to create a clean and sophisticated impression.

FAQ

❓ Why is the "ice" color combination in kimono white on both sides?
This is to express the transparency, coldness, and purity of ice in its purest form. By deliberately not mixing in any other colors and using only white, it reflects the aesthetic sensibilities of the Heian aristocracy who tried to capture the texture of ice by enjoying the subtle shadows created by the light and the texture of the fabric.
❓ What is the difference in color between the "ice" and "snow" layers of kimono?
Both are white colors that represent winter, but they depict different scenes. "Ice" is white on both sides, representing the coldness and transparency of ice itself, while "Under the Snow" is white on the outside and a reddish-brown on the inside, representing the reddish-brown plum blossoms peeking out from under the snow, waiting for spring. The characteristic of layered color combinations is that they delicately express the subtle changes of the seasons.
❓ How can I incorporate "ice" colors into modern fashion?
A monochrome outfit, where the entire look is in white, is the most direct way to express this style. By combining whites from different materials such as silk, wool, and linen, you can create a look that is not monotonous but has depth. Additionally, adding silver accessories or glass items can effectively incorporate the cold, shimmering texture of ice.

Color combinations for the same season (winter)

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