| Japanese color name | Ruri |
|---|---|
| reading | ruri |
| season | 夏 |
| Color of the table | Lapis lazuli (ruriiro) |
| Back color | White (shiro) |
What is Ruri? Origin and Etymology
The layered color combination "Ruri" (lapis lazuli) is, as its name suggests, derived from the gemstone lapis lazuli. Lapis lazuli is considered sacred as one of the seven treasures in Buddhism, and its deep, vibrant blue color was also said to adorn the Pure Land. By using this noble color for the outer fabric and pure white for the lining, it is said to represent the clear summer sky or the refreshing scenery of a waterside. This color scheme reflects the refreshing feeling experienced in the strong summer sun and the elegant worldview that Heian aristocrats idealized.
This color combination is a manifestation of the aesthetic sensibilities of the Heian aristocracy, who sought to capture the colors of natural landscapes in their clothing. The lapis lazuli on the outside is interpreted as symbolizing the summer sky or the deep sea, while the white on the inside symbolizes floating clouds or the shimmering surface of the water. A major characteristic of layered color combinations is that they are not merely combinations of colors, but possess a narrative quality that evokes a sense of the seasons and scenes, and "lapis lazuli" is one of the most representative examples.
The historical background of lapis lazuli
During the Heian period, the aristocratic society developed a refined system of color combinations for clothing that emphasized the seasons, known as "kasane no irome." "Ruri" (lapis lazuli), used for summer attire, was particularly common in men's clothing such as the noshi (court robe) and kariginu (hunting robe). The vibrant blue and white combination was an important element in indicating the wearer's social status, education, and keen sensitivity to the seasons.
In court ceremonies and everyday settings, this refreshing color scheme delighted the eyes of the people. Along with its visual effect of alleviating the summer heat, the use of the noble lapis lazuli blue likely also served to enhance the wearer's dignity. At the time, producing such a vibrant blue was not easy with the dyeing and weaving techniques available, and it was treated as a precious color.
Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words
The word "ruri" itself frequently appears in classical literature such as "The Tale of Genji" and "The Pillow Book" as a treasure or a precious pigment. For example, in the "Picture Contest" chapter of "The Tale of Genji," there is a description of ruri being used to color the painting of Suma commissioned by Hikaru Genji, giving us a glimpse into its preciousness and beauty. However, there are not many descriptions that specifically identify in which scenes "ruri" was worn as a color combination in layered garments.
Although not directly used as a color combination in traditional Japanese clothing, examples of describing the summer sky and sea as "lapis lazuli" can be found in waka poetry. Through these literary works, we can discern the pure and noble image that people of that time associated with lapis lazuli. This likely had a significant influence on the color choices of their clothing.
The season and scenery of lapis lazuli
"Ruri" is a color combination that symbolizes the summer season. The deep lapis lazuli of the outer layer evokes the clear, endless sky of midsummer and the deep, calm sea. On the other hand, the white of the inner layer is said to represent the strong summer sunlight, the light reflecting on the water's surface, or the white clouds floating in the sky. The combination of these two contrasting colors creates a vibrant and refreshing scene.
This color scheme was worn from around April to June in the old lunar calendar, and from late May to around August in the modern calendar. It not only provided a visual coolness during the hot summer months, but also reflected the refined aesthetic sensibilities of the Heian aristocracy, embodying the beauty of nature. It is said to have been a particularly favored color combination for summer banquets and outdoor events.
Ruri's color scheme proposal
White training (#FFFFFF)
The white lining, which is also used for the lapis lazuli fabric, is the most basic combination. It brings out the vibrant blue of the lapis lazuli to the fullest, giving a refreshing and pure impression reminiscent of a summer sky and clouds. Using it for the kimono's obi or accessories creates a cohesive and cool look.
Golden (#E6B422)
The combination of lapis lazuli and gold is a noble and majestic color scheme often seen in Buddhist art. It evokes the strong sunlight of summer or the shimmering light on a sandy beach. In modern design, adding gold as an accent can create a sense of luxury and elegance.
Light green (#A9D159)
By combining a vibrant lapis lazuli blue with the fresh green of young leaves, this color scheme beautifully captures the vibrant energy of summer. The contrast between the blue of the sky and the green of the plants creates a lively and youthful impression.
Practical Scenes
In Heian period attire, this color scheme was mainly used for men's court robes and hunting robes, worn at public events and private gatherings in the summer. In modern kimono, incorporating this color scheme into accessories such as obi sashes, obi ties, and collars for summer visiting kimonos and yukata can create a cool and stylish impression.
In interior design, combining lapis lazuli wallpaper and cushions with white furniture and linens can create a refreshing space reminiscent of a Mediterranean resort. In web design and graphics, using lapis lazuli as the main color and white for the background and text conveys a sense of trustworthiness and cleanliness, resulting in a highly visible design.