What is Natsuhagi? An explanation of the origin, history, and color scheme of the layered color combination.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「夏萩」の色見本
Japanese color nameSummer bush clover
readingnatsuhagi
season
Color of the tableSuou
Back colorblue (ao)
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What is Natsuhagi? Origin and etymology

Natsuhagi (Summer Bush Clover) is a color combination that, as its name suggests, reflects the scene of bush clover (hagi) beginning to bloom in summer. Although bush clover is known as one of the seven autumn flowers, it actually blooms in the summer. This color combination is said to represent the reddish-purple color of the bush clover's flowers with the sappanwood (suo) used on the outside, and the color of its lush green leaves with the blue used on the inside. This color scheme captures the vitality of the bush clover blooming in the strong summer sun and the coolness of its leaves in a single garment, reflecting the keen observational skills and love of nature of the Heian aristocracy.

Historical background of summer bush clover

The concept of layered colors (kasane no irome) is a refined color culture that developed among the aristocracy during the Heian period as Japanese culture matured. They expressed the changing seasons and natural scenery through the combinations of colors in their clothing, demonstrating their education and sensibilities. It is believed that summer hagi (bush clover) was one such color combination used in summer attire. In particular, it is thought to have been favored by women of the imperial court as a stylish way to anticipate the season, especially around the time when bush clover begins to bloom in summer gardens.

However, there are few instances where this color appears directly in famous literary works, suggesting it may have been a color primarily enjoyed in private settings.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

Bush clover (hagi) has been featured in numerous waka poems since the time of the Manyoshu anthology, and is a plant deeply rooted in the Japanese aesthetic sense. While many poems associate it with the melancholy of autumn and feelings of love, in the world of haikai poetry, "hatsu-hagi" (first bush clover) is considered a seasonal word for late summer, and it has also been seen as a flower that symbolizes the transition from summer to autumn. The color combination "Natsu-hagi" (summer bush clover) captures the fresh appearance of the bush clover just beginning to bloom, reflecting this literary background.

It can be said that the delicate sense of the seasons displayed by the aristocrats in classical literature and this aesthetic sense of color are deeply interconnected.

The season and scenery of summer bush clover

Natsuhagi (summer bush clover) is a color scheme worn during the summer of the old lunar calendar, which corresponds to roughly June to August in the modern calendar. The bright reddish-brown color on the outside represents the vibrancy of bush clover flowers blooming under the strong summer sun, while the blue on the inside evokes the freshness of the leaves and the coolness of the shade. This vivid contrast of colors skillfully expresses the vitality of the height of summer and the coolness that is desired at the same time. It also has the effect of providing a visually refreshing feeling in the hot and humid season, making it ideal attire for enjoying the seasonal atmosphere.

Color scheme proposal for Natsuhagi

White training
Kariyasu
dark purple

White training (#FFFFFF)

The strong contrast between the sappanwood and blue is softened, adding a sense of cleanliness and coolness to the overall impression. Combining white with summer attire is a universal combination that creates a more refreshing seasonal feel.

Kariyasu (#F5E56B)

A bright yellow reminiscent of sunlight filtering through the leaves of a bush clover. When combined with colors like sappanwood and blue, they complement each other, adding vitality and vibrancy. This color scheme expresses natural scenes more richly.

Dark purple (#493759)

By combining the reddish-brown color of the surface with purple, a depth and sense of unity are created in the colors. It evokes a calm elegance and a sophisticated, mature atmosphere, like bush clover illuminated by twilight or moonlight.

Practical Scenes

In modern Japanese clothing, the summer hagi color scheme is well-suited to expressing a sense of the season when used in combinations of summer kimonos, yukatas, obiage (sash ties), and obijime (sash cords). The contrast between sappanwood and blue will create a stylish and striking look. This color scheme can also be applied to modern Japanese designs. In interior design, incorporating it into fabrics such as cushion covers and noren (curtains) can add accents and seasonal color to a space.

In web design and graphic design, this color scheme can be used to evoke a sense of Japanese tradition while also being in line with modern sensibilities.

FAQ

❓ In which season is the "Natsuhagi" (summer bush clover) color combination most appropriate to wear?
Natsuhagi is a summer color combination. According to the current calendar, it is considered most appropriate to wear it from June, when the bush clover flowers begin to bloom, until around August, the height of summer.
❓ Why is "hagi" (bush clover), which is strongly associated with autumn, used as the name of a summer color?
While bush clover is famous as one of the seven autumn flowers, its actual blooming season begins in summer. "Summer Bush Clover" captures the vibrant and fresh appearance of the flower just beginning to bloom. It is also thought to reflect the aesthetic sense of the Heian aristocracy, who considered it fashionable to be a little ahead of the season.
❓ What do the colors "sappanwood" and "blue" used in Natsuhagi symbolize?
Generally, the outer color "Suou" is interpreted as symbolizing the reddish-purple flowers of the bush clover, while the inner color "Ao" (blue) symbolizes the lush green leaves. This color scheme expresses the vivid contrasts of summer nature.

Color combinations of the same season (summer)

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