What is Aoba? An explanation of the origin, history, and color scheme of the layered color combination.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「青葉」の色見本
Japanese color nameAoba
readingaoba
season
Color of the tableblue (ao)
Back colorGreen (midori)
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What is Aoba? Origin and etymology

The name "Aoba" directly describes the lush green leaves of trees bathed in the strong summer sun. The "Ao" on the front is not the modern blue, but is thought to originate from the fact that "ao" was an archaic word for deep green. The "Midori" on the back symbolizes the vibrant color of young leaves, and the contrast with the deep color on the front depicts a lively summer scene.

The color scheme of the front and back of this garment skillfully expresses the appearance of trees from early to mid-summer, particularly the sheen of rain-soaked leaves and the coolness of their shade. It can be said to be an expression of the aesthetic sensibility of the Heian aristocracy, who keenly perceived the natural landscape and elevated it into the beauty of color in their clothing.

Aoba's historical background

During the Heian period, a culture of "kasane no irome," which expressed the changing seasons through the color schemes of clothing, developed in aristocratic society. "Aoba" (green leaves) is said to have been one of the colors that represented summer and was especially used in summer attire. In the imperial court, where a sense of the seasons was highly valued, wearing colors appropriate for the time of year was an important element in demonstrating an individual's education and dignity.

Specific examples of its use include the uchiki (a type of kimono worn by female court ladies) and the noshi (a type of formal court robe) and kariginu (a type of hunting robe) worn by men. It is thought that this cool color scheme also played a role in providing a sense of visual coolness in the hot and humid climate during summer events and daily life.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

In Heian period literature, there are not many direct mentions of the color combination "Aoba" (green leaves). However, works such as "The Tale of Genji" and "The Pillow Book" vividly describe the lush greenery of summer gardens and mountains, offering insights into the aesthetic sensibilities that people of that time held towards summer nature.

For example, in the "Everlasting Summer" chapter of "The Tale of Genji," the plants and trees in the summer garden of Hikaru Genji's residence are beautifully depicted. It is thought that this literary background created the environment for the emergence and popularity of colors that reflect natural scenery, such as "green leaves." Furthermore, in the world of waka poetry, "green leaves" is established as a seasonal word for summer and is frequently used in poems as a symbol of vitality and refreshing coolness.

The breeze blows through my sleeves as I awaken, and the moon seems to be dwelling in the green leaves of the treetops.

— Fujiwara no Ietaka

The season and scenery of fresh green leaves

"Aoba" (青葉), as its name suggests, is a color that represents summer, especially the time when the new leaves are deep and the leaves of the trees are at their most vibrant. It is considered appropriate to wear it from around April to June in the old lunar calendar, or from around May to July in the modern calendar. It was worn from early summer to mid-summer because it was considered stylish to wear something slightly ahead of the season.

The combination of the deep blue (archaic green) on the front and the vibrant green on the back evokes the contrast between the surface of a leaf glistening in the strong summer sunlight and the deep shade that spreads beneath it. This color scheme gives the viewer a sense of coolness and vitality, bringing a breath of freshness amidst the summer heat.

Aoba's color scheme proposal

Withered leaf color
White training
Iris color

Kutsuha color (#915E33)

The withered leaf color evokes the color of dry soil and tree trunks. When combined with the vibrant green of fresh leaves, it enriches the image of a summer forest, creating a natural and calming impression. It is a harmonious color scheme using earth tones.

White training (#FFFFFF)

By combining it with a clean, white base, the blue and green of the leaves stand out, creating a refreshing and modern impression. This color scheme evokes images of towering summer clouds and strong sunlight, bringing a sense of coolness to web design and interiors.

Iris color (#674196)

The color "iris yellow" is the color of the iris flower that blooms in early summer. The combination evokes the image of irises blooming by the water's edge amidst lush green leaves. The green of the leaves and the purple of the iris complement each other, creating a vibrant and striking color scheme.

Practical Scenes

In the Heian period, this garment was worn as an uchiki (a type of kimono) or hitoe (a type of undergarment) during the summer months. It is said to have been particularly favored by young women. Its cool appearance was also a visual way to make the hot and humid Japanese summer a little more comfortable.

In modern Japanese attire, incorporating this color scheme into summer kimonos, obi sashes, and accessories such as obi ties creates a stylish look that evokes a sense of the season. It's also an easy color combination to apply to yukata patterns and half-width obi sashes, making it a fun way to create a cool and refreshing look.

In interior design, incorporating the color of fresh green leaves into cushion covers, curtains, and tablecloths can bring a sense of coolness and tranquility to a room. In web design and graphic design, this color scheme can be effectively used in summer campaigns and nature-themed content.

FAQ

❓ Why is the outer layer of the "Aoba" layered garment "blue"?
In ancient Japan, the color green was commonly referred to as "ao." As evidenced by phrases like "ao-shingo" (green traffic light) and "ao-sata kigi" (lush green trees), "ao" was used to describe a deep green color. Therefore, it is believed that the deep color of summer leaves was expressed using the word "ao."
❓ When is the best time to wear this color?
"Aoba" is a summer color combination, best worn from April to June in the old lunar calendar, which corresponds to around May to July in the current calendar, when the trees are at their greenest. It was considered stylish to wear it ahead of the season, so it was used from early summer to mid-summer.
❓ Are there any layered color combinations similar to "Aoba"?
Yes, many summer colors incorporate green. For example, the "nadeshiko" (pink) is red on the outside and blue (green) on the inside, representing a summer flower. Similarly, the "shobu" (iris) sometimes uses light green or blue (green) on the inside, with the colors used depending on the season and scene.

Color combinations of the same season (summer)

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