What is Aomizu (青水)? An explanation of the origin, history, and color scheme of layered kimono colors.

Colors of layered garments
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襲の色目「青水」の色見本
Japanese color nameBlue water
readingaomizu
season
Color of the tableblue (ao)
Back colorLight blue (mizuiro)
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What is "Aomizu"? Origin and etymology

"Aomizu" is a color combination that reflects the refreshing scenery of a clear, clear waterside in summer. Its name literally means "blue water," evoking a cool scene that soothes the summer heat. The deep "blue" on the outside is said to represent the depths of a river or the still surface of a lake, while the bright "light blue" on the inside represents the shimmering shallows and water surface illuminated by the sun. This color scheme strongly reflects the refined aesthetic sense of the Heian aristocracy, who enjoyed the changing seasons by associating natural landscapes with the colors of their clothing.

Historical background of Aomizu

The concept of layered color combinations (kasane no irome) is a uniquely Japanese color culture that developed during the Heian period as the national culture matured. The aristocracy were keenly aware of the subtle changes of the seasons and found beauty in expressing them through the combinations of colors in their clothing. "Aomizu" (青水), among the many color combinations, is thought to have been one of the representative summer color schemes used among the women of the imperial court.

Although there are not many specific records of it being worn, it is known as a valuable color that conveys the aesthetic sense of the Heian aristocracy, who valued the feeling of summer.

Related literature, waka poetry, and seasonal words

It is difficult to pinpoint a famous classical literary work in which the color name "Aomizu" (青水) directly appears. However, literary works such as "The Tale of Genji" and "The Pillow Book" frequently depict characters wearing cool-colored clothing in summer scenes. For example, descriptions of "blue" and "pale colors (colors close to light blue)" are found for summer clothing, suggesting that people at the time expressed a sense of the season with color schemes like "Aomizu."

Furthermore, the summer seasonal words "shimizu" (clear water) and "izumi" (spring) are deeply connected to the refreshing worldview that this color scheme evokes.

The twilight by the Nara stream, where the wind gently blows, is a sign of summer, especially the purification ritual.

— Fujiwara no Ietaka

The season and scenery of blue water

"Aomizu" (青水) is a color scheme that vividly expresses the scene of a clear, pristine waterside in summer. This color combination gives the viewer a deep sense of coolness and has the effect of making them forget the stifling heat of summer. The contrast between the blue on the outside and the light blue on the inside evokes both the stillness of the river surface viewed from the shade of trees and the sparkle of sunlight shining through it. It is said to have been worn mainly in summer, especially in the height of summer around the sixth month of the lunar calendar, and was favored at summer events in the imperial court and at private banquets where people sought to cool off.

Blue Water Color Scheme Proposal

White training
Willow green
Yellowish-brown

White training (#FFFFFF)

Adding white to the cool blue and light blue color scheme gives it a lightness reminiscent of splashes of water or summer clouds. The clean and refreshing feel is further enhanced, making it a combination that gives a cool impression to summer outfits and designs.

Willow color (#A8C97F)

By incorporating the green of willows growing by the water's edge, the summer waterside scenery is expressed more richly. The addition of gentle green to the cool blue tones creates a natural and lively impression, resulting in a color scheme that deepens the Japanese aesthetic.

Yellowish-brown (#FBE251)

The vibrant yellow symbolizes the strong summer sunlight and the light reflecting on the water's surface. Adding it as an accent to blue tones creates a vivid contrast, adding energy and vibrancy to the overall design.

Practical Scenes

In Heian period attire, "Aomizu" (blue water) was primarily used for women's uchiki (outer robes). The light blue lining would peek out from the cuffs and hem with each step, creating a unique beauty characteristic of layered color combinations, where the color's expression changed with movement. This color scheme reflected not only the wearer's dignity but also their appreciation for the seasons.

In modern Japanese clothing, incorporating this color scheme into summer kimonos, yukatas, and accessories such as obiage and obijime allows for a stylish and seasonally appropriate look. In interior design, using it in curtains or cushions brings a refreshing and calming atmosphere to the entire room. Furthermore, in web design, it can be used as a color scheme to convey trustworthiness and a sense of freshness.

FAQ

❓ In what season is "Aomizu" (青水) a color combination worn?
"Aomizu" is a color combination worn during the summer season. In particular, it is said to represent the cool scenery of a clear waterside in summer, and is considered a color scheme suitable for the height of summer.
❓ What is the meaning behind the color scheme of "blue water"?
The "blue" on the front is thought to symbolize the water of deep rivers and lakes, while the "light blue" on the back is thought to symbolize shallow waters and the shimmering surface of the water. This color scheme reflects the aesthetic sense of Heian-era aristocrats who enjoyed the changing seasons by reflecting natural landscapes in the colors of their clothing.
❓ Are there any other color combinations related to "water"?
Yes, they exist. For example, the winter color "ice" depicts the scene of a waterside where ice is beginning to melt. Diverse water scenes are expressed as layered colors for each season, illustrating Japan's rich color culture.

Color combinations of the same season (summer)

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